Monday, August 10, 2009

A Note on Ice Cream

I have to admit to being a provincial. Where I live, we do have a local ice cream company -- two, in fact -- but I confess to being ignorant if, at any time in their history, they offered ice cream in any shapes other than the traditional gallon brick we're all used to.

Cokesbury, however, as evident at the Easter Party, envisions ice creams in fantastical shapes. That was apparently the norm at the time, as evidenced by this passage from Sinclair Lewis' Babbitt, a near-contemporary to Cokesbury:

Vecchia was not a caterer, he was The Caterer of Zenith. Most coming-out parties were held in the white and gold ballroom of the Maison Vecchia; at all nice teas the guests recognized the five kinds of Vecchia sandwiches and the seven kinds of Vecchia cakes; and all really smart dinners ended, as on a resolving chord, in Vecchia Neapolitan ice cream in one of the three reliable molds--the melon mold, the round mold like a layer cake, and the long brick.

Vecchia's shop had pale blue woodwork, tracery of plaster roses, attendants in frilled aprons, and glass shelves of "kisses" with all the refinement that inheres in whites of eggs. Babbitt felt heavy and thick amid this professional daintiness, and as he waited for the ice cream he decided, with hot prickles at the back of his neck, that a girl customer was giggling at him. He went home in a touchy temper.
So, do ice-crema makers -- or anyone else for that matter -- still make ice cream in shapes other than bricks or barrels? There's this, of course, but are there others? I'd like to know.

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